Ullage Levels
Auction houses and collectors describe ullage using standard terms:
- High fill / Into neck — normal for young wines; excellent condition
- Base of neck — typical for wines 15-25 years old; very good condition
- Top shoulder — some evaporation; acceptable for wines 25-40 years old
- Upper mid-shoulder — increased risk; wine may be compromised
- Mid-shoulder or below — high risk of oxidation; avoid unless the price reflects it
Why Ullage Matters
As the air space increases, more oxygen contacts the wine. This can lead to:
- Oxidation — browning, loss of fruit, sherry-like aromas
- Cork degradation — a dry cork (from improper storage) accelerates ullage
- Reduced value — auction prices drop significantly for wines with high ullage
Proper Storage Prevents Ullage
Wines stored on their sides in cool, humid conditions (55-70% humidity, 12-14°C) develop ullage very slowly. Improper storage — upright bottles, warm temperatures, low humidity — accelerates cork drying and evaporation.
Recorking
Prestigious estates (like Château Lafite) offer recorking clinics where they top up old bottles, replace the cork, and apply a new capsule, resetting the ullage level for continued aging.