How Pigeage Works
During red wine fermentation, carbon dioxide pushes solid grape matter to the surface, forming a thick cap (chapeau). Left undisturbed, the cap dries out and can become a breeding ground for acetic acid bacteria. Pigeage breaks and submerges the cap, ensuring even extraction and temperature distribution throughout the must.
Traditional vs. Modern Methods
- Foot treading — the oldest method, still practised in Port production (lagares) and by artisanal Burgundy producers. Gentle extraction with excellent sensory control
- Manual plungers — wooden or stainless-steel tools pushed into the cap by hand. Labour-intensive but gentle
- Pneumatic punch-down — automated pistons that descend into the vat on a programmed cycle. Consistent and less physically demanding
- Robotic pigeage — fully automated systems used in large-scale wineries
Pigeage in Burgundy
Pigeage is inseparable from Burgundy's winemaking identity. Pinot Noir's thin skin requires gentle extraction to avoid harsh, bitter tannins. Traditional Burgundy producers perform pigeage by foot or with small plungers, often two to three times daily during peak fermentation, gradually reducing frequency as extraction goals are reached.